Nyala Restaurant
1076 S. Fairfax Ave, Los Angeles, CA, USA

Once the butt of the world's jokes, Ethiopia has proven itself to be the preeminent figure in the world's cuisine. Those unfamiliar with Ethiopian food are generally forced to battle the harsh but hilarious prejudices of Blanche Knott and her Truly Tasteless Jokes, the victory over which ensures one of the best meals thou shalt ever have.

I discovered this amazing food a couple years back at Ethiopian Diamond in Chicago, and of course jumped at the chance to sample an LA equivalent, Nyala.

"We Are the World" must have really paid off. Nyala is a subtly beautiful restaurant with gorgeous, subdued red-painted walls and classy African paintings on the walls. The dining area is full of colorful plants and decorations, lending the décor a tremendously comfortable and intriguing air. Unobtrusive Afro-pop plays from overhead speakers, with the authenticity punctured only by "Wheel of Fortune" playing on the TV over the bar.

It's possible that "Wheel of Fortune" does not always play on that TV, but may have simply been on during my visit. I can not be 100% sure. It is not a game show that matches the quiet grace and slow pace of the Ethiopian culture, yet it was not out of place, like when you are sifting through cassette tapes in an Ethiopian bazaar and stumble across The Best of Styx. Well, who hasn't that happened to?!

The place was really nice, a bit more streamlined than, but missing the inscrutable charm of, Ethiopian Diamond, which has become one of my favorite dining establishments despite a certain unevenness. The service was good and very hospitable, and the parking was easy as pie.

I dined with LA Companion 888, and we split a Vegetarian Combination, which contained small portions of most of their veg-friendly plates. Each item was delicious, with special props given to the kik alecha and the mixed vegetables, both well-seasoned and, as they say in some of the higher-end dining guides, "yummalicious."

The platter was not huge, so we ordered another of the same combination, which may have been overkill. The bread was a bit cold and clammy, but suffered mainly in comparison to Ethiopian Diamond.

Taken on its own merits, though, this was a fantastic restaurant. I had two Sprites and we both had considerable water. The prices were reasonable, a bit higher than they really should have been (the bill came to about $26), but after the communal experience offered by Ethiopian dining, who can complain about things like money? I mean, there are children starving in Africa, am I right!?!?!?!?

Meat eaters are welcome here as well, though not by me. Special mention should be made of the table next to us, which was full of hilariously overdrawn ladies making ignorant and shallow remarks – one of which was "That really brings out my lesbian instincts!" I missed the set-up for that one, but I enjoyed the punchline.

Review by Abel Packaday, August 1999