 Bob's Big Boy
Finally, a 50s-style diner that is actually from the 50s. The original Bob's Big Boy in Burbank is still standing, now even listed as a place of historical interest by the state of California. It was originally built in 1949 and has all of the neon you could ever want in a place, not to mention the classic pudgy Bob statue and huge sign tower that heralds the restaurant from above. Even amid the glitz in this part of the country, Bob's stands out as a singular icon, and they even offer car-hop service for the added authenticity. There's really only one drawback: it's still a Bob's Big Boy. Meaning you can throw in all the "Happy Days"-style gimmickry you want and you've still basically got a Denny's-level dining experience. The patronage was pretty much all rickety old people (see my graduate thesis, "Why Old People Suck and Stink"), and the service was very low-end. I went with fellow staffer Crimedog and his bitch, and we opted to go for the indoor experience rather than the car-hop service, even though I wouldn't have been surprised if Cathy Silvers herself were working there. We were greeted by a server whose demeanor was such that I couldn't tell whether he was making fun of us or was mildly retarded, though it's not impossible that there's a bit of truth in both of those assessments. Crimedog had a turkey sandwich and fries, I had a veggie burger and fries, and the fillie had a baked potato. All of these carbohydrates were good but not spectacular, and for some reason I got incredibly sleepy afterward. I had a lemonade to drink (free refills), which was delicious, and my dining companions had water.
In a brochure detailing the history of this restaurant there is a blurb about how they have been working to "restore the quality of food, service and hospitality which made Bob's a Southern California tradition." Anytime they make special note of how these elements need to be "restored" (exactly how bad was the food and service in the 80s, that it needed a restoration project?), you know the place is not exactly what you or it wants it to be. That said, it has one million hit points of atmosphere and charisma, so the actual building itself goes a long way toward making this a very enjoyable experience. Prices are decent, especially for the LA area, which is known for the $200 fruit plate (or so goes the rumor I just started previously in this same sentence). Menu selections are limited for Vegans (even vegetarians will have some trouble), but overall it's a decent place to sit back and chat in a bright, non-coffeeshop type atmosphere. It's apparently something of a hub for celebrities; Crimedog has seen Wes Anderson and David Lynch here, so it MUST be good. Someday someone will talk of how they saw me here! No, they'll probably just talk about how they saw me cruising for whores on Hollywood Boulevard. Oh well, no press is bad press; just ask Fatty Arbuckle.
Review by La Fée, August 1999 |